Buckwheat Waffles with Cassis and Granola
Kasha Varnishkes
Buckwheat Crêpes

The health food trend made grains like barley, millet, polenta, and whole wheat a part of our diet. But what about buckwheat? It still sits forgotten on the shelves of our supermarkets with "Kasha" written on its unpopular boxes. Buckwheat has many uses in US: beekeepers plant it as a honey source since its blossoms are so rich with nectar, and farmers use it to feed livestock since it is high in protein. I think it's time that we give buckwheat the culinary glory it deserves and put it to use in our kitchens.

The buckwheat plant is very different from other grains because it is not a grass. It is an herb of the genus Fagopyrum. We eat its seeds. Although buckwheat is believed to be a native of Central and Western China, it gained the most popularity in Russia. Buckwheat is cooked as a hot cereal with hot milk for breakfast, as a side dish for main course, as a light supper, or as stuffing for poultry – roast duck stuffed with buckwheat is a classic combination in Russian cuisine. The buckwheat flour is used to make blini (yeast pancakes) that are particularly popular for Maslenitsa, a festival before Lent similar to Mardi Gras. In France, savory crêpes (thin pancakes) are also made with buckwheat flour. These buckwheat crêpes originated in Brittany – the northwest region of France. In Japan, buckwheat flour is used to make soba noodles.

Buckwheat's flavor is very intense and ranges from nutty to earthy. Some people find buckwheat too cardboard tasting. There are easy solutions to this problem for both the buckwheat seed and buckwheat flour dishes. To avoid the cardboard taste in buckwheat seed dishes, I add caramelized onions. Their sweetness balances the strong earthy taste and makes for well-rounded savory dishes. You can also mix buckwheat with wild rice, or pasta for some interesting flavor combinations. Dishes that use buckwheat flour need a different approach to solve the cardboard issue. When making batter for pancakes, waffles, and breads, I always mix buckwheat flour with all-purpose flour. Even a small amount of buckwheat flour will give some nice earthiness to your dough and batter.

Buckwheat seeds come whole or ground. Whole seeds make the best kasha – a Russian dish of buckwheat simmered in water. You can get buckwheat seeds in most supermarkets and Russian grocery stores. Buckwheat flour is not as widely available, but most organic stores carry it.

For an elegant breakfast, try buckwheat ginger waffles with cassis sauce. When I cook these for guests, they ask if I am preparing to open a Bed and Breakfast. Kasha Varnishkes is a hearty Russian-Jewish dish of buckwheat, pasta and caramelized onions. It's one of the quickest weekday dinners. Buckwheat crêpes are good for breakfast, lunch, or dinner. You can serve a stack for breakfast and let everyone fill them with blueberry and black current preserves.

Buckwheat Waffles with Cassis and Granola
Kasha Varnishkes
Buckwheat Crêpes