This fall, we spent our vacation in France hiking, biking, canoeing, wine tasting, and, of course, eating. We had only two weeks to sample France's culinary delights, and did not want to leave the choice of the restaurants to chance. Seasoned travelers and foodies that we asked raved about the Michelin Red Guide, so we decided to try it. Our trip started in Provence and Ardèche, continued north to Burgundy and ended in Paris. We stayed in big cities, small towns, and tiny villages. The Michelin Red Guide proved to be a superb, albeit a bit cryptic, travel companion and ensured that we had a delicious dinner waiting for us no matter where we went. The guide was comprehensive and provided suggestions in all price ranges, and all geographic locations, even the most rural ones. We tried restaurants in all categories - from a small rural inn to the three star Georges Blanc. The Michelin system is not without flaws, but it is the most comprehensive and reliable guide for dining in France.

When I started using Michelin Red Guide and its online version michelin-travel.com to plan our trip, I had to learn a new language - the language of Michelin symbols that describe each establishment. The verbal description is minimal, and while the symbols are cryptic, and the Guide's explanation of them is not clear, the symbol ratings are very consistent and reliable. Once you understand their meaning, the guide becomes extremely helpful. The two most important symbols are forks and stars: the ratings for formality and cuisine. Michelin gives restaurants one to five forks. Since the Guide's explanation of the fork symbols is so vague, I created my own.

Atmosphere symbols	Michelin explanation	Helen's explanation
1 fork	Quite comfortable	Relaxed and casual atmosphere that can range from rustic to chic. Tables may be too close together. Dress code casual.
2 fork	Comfortable	Pretty dining room with creative touches. More room between tables. Dress code classic casual.
3 fork	Very comfortable	Beautiful dining room. Formal service. Place for a special occasion. Good place to dress up.
4 fork	Top-class comfortable	Lavish and grand décor. Service is very formal. Jacket and tie (unless the restaurant is in the country side)
5 fork	Luxury	We have not been to any 5 fork restaurants.

Surprisingly, prices did not reflect the quality of cuisine - they were mainly a function of the number of forks. Since cuisine is the most important aspect of dining for me, I tried to maximize the food rating and minimize the formality rating when choosing restaurants. To help me plan the restaurant budget for the trip, Michelin Guide listed accurate prices for each establishment. Although the price listings were cryptic, they were worth learning how to read to avoid unpleasant surprises when getting the bill.

Michelin has four food ratings. The best restaurants are rated with one to three stars. A three star rating is such an honor that Michelin bestows it on only 18 restaurants in France. Merely being listed in the Guide is an achievement - even restaurants with no food rating offer good cooking. A separate food rating is Bib Gourmand, which indicates "good meals at moderate prices." I found these restaurants to be the best culinary value for the money. The formality rating never exceeded two forks, which kept the prices down. We had wonderful meals in very pleasant, relaxed dining rooms. A dinner for two with a bottle of wine cost around $75. The bill for an equivalent dinner in Boston or New York runs us around $130. Unfortunately, nearly all starred restaurants are formal, and thus quite pricey. During our trip, we tried a one star Auberge La Fennier and three star Georges Blanc. Our bills were two to four times the bills of bib gourmand restaurants, but the cuisine was not two to four times better. The number of courses was bigger and the ingredients were more exotic and expensive. A few dishes were pure magic. If more dishes offered such a transcendent experience, I would find the prices appropriate, but since only one or two dishes shined in meals of six to eight courses, I found these meals not worth their prices.

If you go to starred restaurants, I suggest minimizing the number forks. Just be aware that these rare gems are popular and require reservations as much as a month in advance. Bib Gourmand restaurants offer a good alternative. They are not far behind in cuisine. We made reservations a day or two in advance, the prices were reasonable, and we always enjoyed a delicious dining experience. Unlike other guides, Michelin helped us avoid the tourist traps. Many restaurants that it recommended were off the main drag, away from tourists' eyes. Many places that locals recommended were listed in the Michelin - a sign of a good guide. Traveling with the Michelin Red Guide felt like visiting a friend who knew the local finds.

Reviews of all the restaurants we dined in