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Last night's visit to OM left me with one impression – pretentious
mediocrity in Boston restaurants has reached a new level.
Truffle and parmesan pop corn was served instead of bread. Great
flavor, but the popcorn itself was cold and by the time the food
arrived, we wished they served floss with that pop corn.
Amuse-bouche of salmon mousse was creamy and delicate although served
with overly salted toasts and lifeless asparagus.
Tomato consommé with vegetable and tapioca pearls
turned out to be just a vegetable broth without even a hint of tomato
and plain old carrots and turnips cut into little balls. I don't
think their round shape did much for the taste, but I am sure some
prep cook had to slave over them. Grilled cheese that was served with
the soup was the best part of the meal -- very buttery and nicely
crisped with
very good cheese (I think cheddar).
Torched tuna tartar with currants and crème brûlée type crust was ok,
but would have been better without the sugar coating. The hibiscus
fizzy drink served with it did not taste good either by itself or with
tuna. I think it's hard to ruin good raw tuna, but OM has succeeded
admirably.
This gloomy looking situation did not improve with the entrees. Pork
loin was very lean and even though it was still pink in the center and
thinly sliced, it was a chewy and not very flavorful. Why would
anyone choose to cook such a lean part of pork is a mystery to me.
Pork belly was better -- tender and delicate, but not nearly as
flavorful as this cut of pig can be. I mean, come on -- this is bacon
we are talking about! It came with a teaspoon of some finely shredded
red cabbage that was kind of tasteless and a drizzle of very hot
mustard.
Duck breast was cooked medium-rare as ordered, but under-seasoned. It
was sliced very thick and tasted like bland rubber that you keep
chewing and chewing, and can't seem to swallow. Bisteeya that came
along with the duck breast was composed of fillo pastry filled with
duck confit. It was better than the breast, but a tad too dry and
bland. Unfortunately, there was no sauce to remedy the situation, so
my worries about the lack of bread to dip in the sauce or meat juices
left on the plate were completely unfounded. A smear of some sweet
puree (kind of like pumpkin butter), bland mustard greens, and a few
chopped up dates did not exactly inspire me to wipe my plate.
It was a very quiet Sunday night and only 4 tables were full when we
were in the restaurant, so there is no way our experience could be
blamed on overwhelmed kitchen staff.
Throughout this drawn out torture of a meal, our solemn waitress
floated to and from our table like a specter every time we took a sip
of wine. She spent about a minute pouring one glass, slowly floating
around the table, and pouring another glass. After being interrupted
mid-sentence 3 times in 10 minutes, we asked if we could pour our own
wine. She nodded and floated away. Judging from the sour expression
on her face, she was suffering as much as we were.
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